Black Diamond ATC Guide

 Brand : Black Diamond
Item : BLD0789
The self-locking capability of the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device makes it an excellent choice when you cast off on multi-pitch trad, ice, and alpine climbs. The ATC Guide—winner of the Climbing Magazine Editor's Choice Award—belays a leader just like any other tube-style device, but it can also be connected directly to your anchor to create a self-locking system when you're belaying one or two following climbers. This allows you to eat, drink, tie your shoes, and take pictures as you belay with confidence that your partners are completely safe. Its unique release point lets you lower a following climber when the ATC Guide is in self-locking mode, even if he's way heavier than you. The aggressive V-notch allows this belay device to work on ropes from 7.7 to 11mm—even when they're icy.
Price: $25.90
See All Belay and Rappel Devices


Product Reviews
Black Diamond ATC Guide



Better than the Reverso
I have been using the Petzl Reverso for a few years, and I can honestly say that I like the ATC Guide better. The Black Diamond device locks more securely and releases easier thanks to it's specific release point. I wish you could get a carabiner through this hole, but I suppose it's smaller to keep people from accidentally setting it up wrong. The ATC Guide is a little heavier then the Reverso, but it's worth the trade off. You'll never see me on a multi-pitch route without this thing.


BD ATC-XP Guide
I’ve had a chance to use this device now on a few outings and with a few different diameter ropes. Here's what I've found. The XP-Guide is narrower than the ATC-XP, and therefore will not work as well with a 10.5mm rope or higher. A 10.5mm rope is a bit thick for the device. Belaying is okay with a 10.5, but laborious and can sometimes grab when you don't want it to, especially when trying to pay out a lot of slack quickly to the leader. In auto-locking mode to bring up the second a 10.5 takes a lot of effort to get through the device, and if your second is really climbing fast it's difficult to keep up. However, because the Guide is a little narrower than the XP, it grabs skinnier ropes better. I think the sweet spot for the Guide exists in between 9.7mm and 10.3mm. With these diameters it works like a dream. Also, the enigmatic little hole for lowering the second does make lowering from the anchor a little easier, but for those who've used a Reverso, you can use the second locker the rope travels around to lower just as well. The additional hole does provide a little more leverage, so it is possible with the redirect to just lower your second by pulling on the sling with your hand if the climber is light, or can take a little weight off the rope by walking down the route or down climbing. (See the BD technical notice for lowering procedure) With a heavier climber, when you are using your body weight to lower, it takes a little getting used to. A little jerky at first and less sensitive than lowering with your hands "belay" style, but no worse than the Reverso. All in all, a good device.


Great Device
The XTC Guide is a great device. I used it 10 times already. I didn't get to use it in guide mode. But, it was great to rappel with and super quick when I caught my climbing partner falling from about 75ft. The high friction mode truly is! I can't wait to get a skinnier rope to try it with, as my 10.5 is getting ready for retirement.


very nice, but not for thick ropes
This is a nice device, although I have to agree with caleb that it's really ideal for ropes below 10.5 mm (great for twins or doubles). With beefier or stiffer ropes, it's really hard to dole out lot of rope quickly to a leader as he/she tries to clip gear for instance. For skinny ropes, it's great. For belaying directly off gear in guide mode it works very nicely as well. I tied a short loop of cord through the small hole and that way I can easily clip a 'biner and sling to it to give me the extra leverage to unlock the device to lower the second.


Evolution
There are lots of these types of devices out there and Black Diamond has come out with arguably the best one. It's super smooth, versatile and just works great. I really like it.




Black Diamond Super 8 Belay/Rappel Device
The Supper 8s flawless design makes for an incredibly strong, lightweight belay/rappel device. A super smooth ride, the Super 8 is great for handling any rope diameter.

Package Black Diamond ATC-XP/Rocklock Package
Purchase the innovative Black Diamond ATC-XP belay device and Rocklock carabiner, and save cash.

Black Diamond ATC Belay Device
The Black Diamond ATC belay device holds falls and rappels with ease. A classic.

Petzl Grigri Belay Device
The Petzl Grigri Belay Devices self-locking system has made it a staple item at sport crags from Smith to Rifle to the Ceuse.